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The
process of dicontinuous supplementary weft is one whereby
the supplementary yarns are placed in the web of the plain
weave by means of picking out each warp yarn by hand and
palling the supplementary weft yarn through them in small
or specific areas only. Many clolurs can be placed into
the design across the width of the fabric in this method
which is sometime called "embroidery on the loom".
In some areas the process is done with the back of the
fabric facing upwards which allows for very neat finishing,
while in other areas the fabric is woven with the right
face up. Usually
was used as the supplementary yarn on either a cotton or
silk base.
Placing
a gold or silver yarn into the weave in a discontinuous
weft patern was first introduced with Persian and Indian
fabrics that were traded to the courts of S.E. Asia.
Popular design included medallions or stripes of gold or
silver on luxurious silk fabrics. In provincial areas,
yellow silk was often used to simulate gold. |