The Chao Phraya river separates Bangkok into two parts - the bustling, crowded side where life is modern, frantic and noisy, and Bang Kruay in Nonthaburi province, where life is gentle, quiet and still very traditional. Moments after dawn breaks, around six, the fruit seller, with a call like that of the Muslim muezzin, announces his wares; pineapple, watermelon, mango, banana, whatever is in season. What initially appear to be floating islands covered in colourful bougainvillea are transformed into barge - bound nurseries as they come closer: and around meal time, the floating fast food boats come by, trailing mouthwatering aromas. 

In the steamy early months of the year, before the monsoon breads, the klong provides a communal swimming pool. Although it may not entice all, most children love splashing the heat away in the cool water. For many families the klong is a open - air bathroom which all must use. Not even the family dog can evade a wash from time to time. At Loy Kratong, the festival held on the full - moon night of the 11th lunar month, the klong takes on a surreal, unworldly atmosphere as families set afloat lighted candles affixed to banana leaves, each one carrying a wish for the year ahead.